27 April 2012

Day 1 - Sewing a Slash-and-spread Shirt


(When it comes to alliteration --- I don't skimp.)

This week I'm making a probably-sleeveless shirt, or maybe a tunic, that will look something like this drawing in a sort of vague way.

Actually, scratch that. That's how I normally operate, which is probably part of the reason most of my sewing projects take so long. But this time I'm going to stick carefully to my design. (After all, how else can I create a series of blog posts about it?) My final shirt will look like this, exactly like this, right down to the tiny, decorative button on the front yoke.

Main design features:

The "design feature" of this shirt isn't a feature so much as a technique used for ruching, tucks, gathers - basically for adding any sort of fullness to a garment piece. It's called the slash-and-spread method.

The front yoke1 here will be cut with a lot of extra fabric horizontally, which can then be used for those loose smocking tucks along its lower edge. In the same way, the main body of the shirt will be cut fuller (almost like a quarter-circle) than it normally would be, so that it can be tucked into the band along the bottom hem.


More on how to do all this on Sunday!


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1. A yoke is a fitted section of a piece of clothing (usually a shirt) and from it hangs a looser section of the garment. It's often the section around the neck and shoulders, for example the top "panel" that covers the shoulder and back of a dress shirt. In this "slash-and-spread" shirt, the top sections of both the front and back are called "yokes" - even if the front section uses a lot of extra cloth.

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